It’s nearly two a.m. and I am bundled up in Flores’ upstairs bedroom attic in bed, my hair smelling of ash and smoke, my fingers trembling and my heart in palpitations…What a night! Flores and I had a drink and some food at the Posada San Jose (she ordered croquettas, little breaded bechamel and jamon that’s fried in oil; I ordered chulettas, one of my favorite dishes here–grilled baby lamb chops). We chatted over wine and dinner, then said goodbye as she headed home and I made my way up the hill past the old castle wall to the San Isidro cemetery. I’d been there earlier today to place a rock on Fernando Zobel’s grave for Ethan, and then when I saw them preparing piles of wood for a bonfire in the courtyard of the cemetery, I realized that tonight was the beloved fiesta de San Isidro.
For years I’d heard from my old students and Flores about this event. I understood it involved a graveyard, fires, and singing, but that was pretty much all I knew. But what a mix! Flores gave me the name of a woman I was to seek out, so that I wouldn’t feel out of place among the groups of families that each belong to a brotherhood within the cemetery. I asked for Hortensia when I arrived, saying Flores had sent me. As usual, saying Flores’ name pretty much gets you Amex Black card treatment. Hortensia introduced me to the others in the brotherhood and then they proceeded to fill me with more food. Hortensia would point to the pork sausage and say, “Devora, where are you, come eat.” When I hesitated at the sight of the black blood sausage (morcilla) a man named Ramon took matters into his hands and, taking the piece of bread I was holding, he smeared it with the black meat before commanding me to eat. Happily it tasted good, though remembering it now I’m a little nauseous.
In any case, the bonfire and the morcilla were only the beginning. Then, everyone squeezed into the little chapel to listen to the viejos sing. The old guys were good, but then came the younger musicians, with their long, flowing capes, guitars and bravado. I sat at the back of the chapel, boca abierta, absolutely delighted.
When the bonfires had gone out and I’d said goodbye to Hortensia, I walked back home to Flores’ with smoke from the fires clinging to my coat, and ashes in my hair, their joyous songs lingering in my ears.
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